Valentino: The Italian Designer Who Redefined Elegance
The Beginning
Valentino, a name synonymous with high fashion, began his journey in 1962 at the Pritti Palace in Florence. His debut was just the start of a long career that would see him become one of the first Italian designers to make a significant impact in France. Valentino's designs were known for their bold reds and classic silhouettes, which often sparked debate.
The White Collection
In 1968, Valentino introduced The White Collection, a striking series of A-line dresses and suit jackets, all in white. This was a bold move in a country that was all about color at the time. His designs quickly gained international popularity, especially among European celebrities and wealthy women willing to spend thousands on his creations.
A Vision of Beauty
Valentino's vision was to make women feel beautiful and confident. He dressed some of the most iconic women of our time, including:
- Jackie Kennedy
- Audrey Hepburn
- Julia Roberts
His designs were inspired by old European styles and aristocratic tastes, rather than following new trends. This signature style often included his famous Valentino red, a color that exuded confidence and romance.
The Paris Collection
Being French-trained, Valentino was well-versed in the rules of couture. In 1975, he launched his first Paris collection, showcasing more relaxed silhouettes with many layers. This blend of Italian culture and Parisian haute couture techniques made Valentino the designer he was. Throughout his career, his designs maintained a classic silhouette, often paired with bold Italian colors or textures.
Criticism and Controversy
Valentino's collections didn't change dramatically each season. Instead, they continued to uphold high couture standards and craftsmanship. However, this devotion to beauty standards has faced criticism. In 2007, Valentino defended the trend of very skinny women on runways, stating that:
"When girls are skinny, the dresses are more attractive."
Critics argued that his designs reinforced exclusion and gatekeeping in the fashion industry. It's only recently that Valentino's runways have started to feature more average-sized bodies.
The Legacy
In 1998, the Valentino fashion brand sold for US$300 million to Holding di Partecipazioni Industriali. Valentino continued to design until his retirement in 2007. Since then, the fashion house has continued under other creative directors. Valentino's legacy lives on as the Italian designer who broke through the French haute couture elite and made a name for himself. His iconic red will forever be remembered for its glamour, and his unmatched craftsmanship will continue to inspire future generations.
